By Jason Polakow
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From my first encounter with Jaws some 20 years ago, my life since that day has forever been changed. It's kind of strange how one wave can shape your life and become your sole obsession. I find myself sometimes forgetting how amazing the wave really is and it's not until I get another dose that all the memories and feelings coming rushing back. Once you've been bitten you become part of that wave forever, or at least until you get married!
Every year I try and prepare myself for the winter season ahead.
Last year I almost drowned and was held down for over 1 minute so this year I really wanted to make sure I was ready for anything.
During the Hawaiian summer I spent some time back in Australia learning different techniques about expanding your lungs and learning about the nervous system, anything that might make me more confident on the water. I wanted to be ready for this season and not get into a situation like I did last year.
March 15th 2011 was one of those great days that you may only get every few years.
I have lately been really enjoying the opportunity to venture up to Jaws on my own.
My ski is parked on the beach all the way down in Sprekalsville so it takes a good 30 to 40 minutes to motor up the coast. I was on the beach at 7:30 in the morning with no one around, packing and strapping my equipment to the sled.
It's definitely not the smartest thing to do, as you are vulnerable to a number of things that can go wrong. Huge waves close out from Hookipa all the way down to Kanaha and debris floats all around you at times from the high surf line the night before.
You have to be on your game from the time your feet hit the water. It gets me into a sort of Mojo that sets the tone for the rest of the day. You arrive at Jaws already alert and you are just aware of everything around you.
I find it a real part of the Jaws experience but I guess I feel that way because nothing has gone wrong yet.
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